FABRICS
Developments in the textile sector over time have been particularly important. Regarding wool, the various yarn blends, the technological advances and innovative approaches have changed the landscape and have led to the creation of raw materials with infinite capabilities. The natural qualities of wool, its durability, the variety of options, the abundance of colors and prints, render it the ideal raw material for suit making. Wool fabrics differ depending on the season and are classified as winter, summer, and all season.
Let us review the main fabric types:
Merino from Australia, mohair from Africa, cashmere from Mongolia, linen from Ireland, and silk from China are the most prevalent and expensive fabric qualities. Equally prevalent and commercially successful, although of much lower quality, are cotton, synthetic yearns, and viscose.
Merino and mohair are ideal for any occasion, for everyday use or for formalwear, and can be made equally into men’s and women’s suits, as well as blazers.
Merino is the softest, finest wool that can be used in suit making. It does not crease, and it is highly breathable. It keeps the body warm during the cold months and cool in the heat, as it absorbs moisture. After being collected, it is processed and depending on the fineness of the yarn it is classified according to a scale that starts with the super 70s and goes all the way up to the super 200s. The wool’s diameter is measured in microns. An Australian super 110s wool fabric has a yarn diameter of 18.75 microns, while a human hair ranges between 40 and 50 microns. Finally, it is indicative of the technological advances made that 105 kilometers of super 150s fabric can be produced from just one kilogram of Australian wool.
Mohair is collected from the Angora goat, which lives primarily in southern Africa. It is slightly coarse and tough, but it does not crease. Mohair is slightly shiny and also cooler than merino. Its blend with merino creates an excellent fabric that combines all the positive features of both yarns.
Cashmere and silk have a natural gloss and shine that renders them ideal for formal occasions. The beauty of silk and cashmere is multifaceted. Both have very fine fibers, making them exceptionally comfortable and pleasant to use. Silk and cashmere are two of the most luxurious fabrics in the world.
Cashmere is fine, light, soft and much warmer than merino wool. It has a silky feel and is one of the most opulent fabrics in the world. When it is woven without blending it is ideal for coats, blazers, sports jackets and women’s suits. Its most classic blend is with merino wool and it is ideal for all uses, depending on the fabric weave.
Silk is a natural protein fiber. It is distinguished by its softness and gloss, qualities that place it among the best fabrics in the world. One of its advantages is that it reacts depending on body temperature, keeping us warm in winter and cool in summer. It is used in suits, jackets, women’s suits, coats, accessories, and can be combined perfectly with every type of wool.
Linen is a predominantly summer fabric, characterized by the airy and cool style it lends to clothing. Another feature of linen is that it creases rather a lot, which is why textile makers have created linen-wool and linen-silk blends to minimize wrinkling. Linen is naturally derived and it is one of the most ancient yarns known to man. It is hypoallergenic and antistatic and causes no side effects to the skin. Linen is breathable and has the ability to absorb moisture and remain dry to the touch. Traditionally, Ireland produces the best linen fabrics in the world.
SYNTHETIC YARNS
Natural or synthetic wool?
Synthetic fabric, known as Dacron, is the product of human ingenuity, manufactured from petroleum byproducts. It first appeared in the United States in 1951. It has the drawback that it traps heat and does not allow the body to breath, resulting in excessive sweating. It is not suitable for the cold months, because it does not keep the body warm. Synthetic fibers have a distinctive shine and are especially flammable. On the positive side, they are low-cost, durable, and do not crease easily. Unlike synthetics, wool is “smart”. As a fabric, it has the capacity to absorb moisture, allowing the body to breathe so that we do not sweat in the heat, while keeping us warm in cold winter weather. A wool-synthetic blend is a classic mix, used primarily for everyday trousers and suits, as it combines the positive features of both yarns and, importantly, is much cheaper than an all-wool fabric.
VISCOSE
Viscose is a product of human ingenuity but, unlike synthetics, is considered plant based. It consists of natural raw materials which are then submitted to extensive processing and the use of chemicals to create the final product. It is a very prevalent product, with a silky-smooth feel and the capacity to absorb body moisture. In men’s formalwear it is used mostly to make suit linings, and also men’s accessories.
COTTON
Cotton is a natural fiber. It is the most commonly used fiber in the world, with several advantages. It is hypoallergenic, cool, soft, and allows the body to breath. It is ideally suited for making shirts, trousers, but also suits, depending on its weave and processing. Its sole flaw is that when it is woven unblended it creases quite a lot, so manufacturers create various blends to make it more suitable for different uses.
SYNTHETIC YARNS
Natural or synthetic wool?
Synthetic fabric, known as Dacron, is the product of human ingenuity, manufactured from petroleum byproducts. It first appeared in the United States in 1951. It has the drawback that it traps heat and does not allow the body to breath, resulting in excessive sweating. It is not suitable for the cold months, because it does not keep the body warm. Synthetic fibers have a distinctive shine and are especially flammable. On the positive side, they are low-cost, durable, and do not crease easily. Unlike synthetics, wool is “smart”. As a fabric, it has the capacity to absorb moisture, allowing the body to breathe so that we do not sweat in the heat, while keeping us warm in cold winter weather. A wool-synthetic blend is a classic mix, used primarily for everyday trousers and suits, as it combines the positive features of both yarns and, importantly, is much cheaper than an all-wool fabric.
VISCOSE
Viscose is a product of human ingenuity but, unlike synthetics, is considered plant based. It consists of natural raw materials which are then submitted to extensive processing and the use of chemicals to create the final product. It is a very prevalent product, with a silky-smooth feel and the capacity to absorb body moisture. In men’s formalwear it is used mostly to make suit linings, and also men’s accessories.
COTTON
Cotton is a natural fiber. It is the most commonly used fiber in the world, with several advantages. It is hypoallergenic, cool, soft, and allows the body to breath. It is ideally suited for making shirts, trousers, but also suits, depending on its weave and processing. Its sole flaw is that when it is woven unblended it creases quite a lot, so manufacturers create various blends to make it more suitable for different uses.
